Much-loved in Notting Hill and authentically delicious, the French rotisserie Cocotte sets up a second shop in Hoxton Square
Words Lucie Pearce
Well-established in Notting Hill, the Parisian-born friends who brought rotisserie to west London are trying their luck in the east of the capital. Not without competition, they’ve set up their second branch of Cocotte in the heart of Hoxton Square. Luckily for them – and us – they know what they’re doing.
They seem to be off to a strong start. When we arrive the front terrace is already teeming with people, and customers continue to arrive during the course of our, quite frankly, gargantuan meal.
We start with a couple of cocktails – mine a pleasant Bellini-type Cocotte Spritz, my companion’s a downright dangerous concoction of Mezcal Union, pear liquor and Marie Brizard.
Aperitifs served, we go for crudités and honey mustard chicken wings, which are perfectly nice. Out of the two accompanying dips, I’d recommend the ‘green sauce’, a lovely blend of eight herbs, pine nuts and feta.
Then comes the main course. Truffle mac and cheese, mashed potato, gepetto salad (burritina, roasted tomato and fresh basil), a fig salad made up of cashews, blue cheese and honey, ratatouille, half a rotisserie chicken and seven sauces.
Never one to order a side of vegetables when cheese and carbs will do me very well, the ratatouille is delicious, and a fresh accompaniment to an otherwise rich meal. The chicken is good – the leg and thigh immensely so, while the mac and cheese is utter heaven.
The range of homemade sauces caters for every palate imaginable. The gravy is tasty, the truffle mayo deliciously decadent, while the spicy sauce hot enough to sate any culinary thrill seekers.
This is washed down with a crisp and fruity Sauvignon Blanc, which complemented the chicken perfectly.
Then comes the cheese course. A strong mix of nutty and blue cheeses, I do my best to get through the lot before rolling all the way home.
These guys know what they’re doing. The ambience is just right, the staff friendly without being over attentive, and with a range of healthy and more indulgent sides available, it’s up to you how much you treat yourself to. Something I am clearly still trying to teach myself.
8 Hoxton Square, N1