Tom Kerridge introduces a trio of recipes from his acclaimed Marlow institutions: The Hand & Flowers, The Butcher’s Tap & Grill and The Coach
The Hand & Flowers Smoked Haddock Omelette (main image)
A delicate, beautiful omelette is one of those pure dishes that makes you realise great food does not have to be about hundreds of ingredients on a plate. It’s about allowing a simple product to sing. I learnt that lesson back in the day when I worked for Gary Rhodes and we used to do a lobster omelette, which showcased the chef’s technique rather than putting a load of fancy things on the plate.
Poached smoked haddock
1 side of smoked haddock, 600g, skin and pin bones removed | 600ml whole milk
Check the smoked haddock for any tiny pin bones. Bring the milk to the boil in a wide-based saucepan. Carefully lay the smoked haddock in the pan, ensuring it is covered by the milk. Place a lid on the pan, turn off the heat and leave the fish to poach in the residual heat for about 10 minutes. Once the haddock is cooked, remove it from the milk and gently flake the fish into a tray lined with greaseproof paper. Cover the tray with cling film and place in the fridge until ready to serve. Pass the milk through a fine chinois into a clean saucepan and keep to one side.
Smoked fish béchamel
250ml smoked haddock poaching liquor | 15g unsalted butter | 15g plain flour | Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Bring the smoked haddock poaching liquor to a gentle simmer. In a separate pan over a medium-low heat, melt the butter. Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Gradually ladle in the warm poaching liquor, stirring as you do so to keep the sauce smooth. Cook gently over a very low heat for 20 minutes. Pass the sauce through a fine chinois and cover the surface with a piece of baking parchment or cling film to prevent a skin forming. Set aside until needed.
4 tbsp warm smoked haddock béchamel | 4 tbsp hollandaise sauce | 4 medium free-range egg yolks | Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Gently warm the béchamel in a saucepan then pour into a bowl and whisk in the hollandaise and egg yolks. Season with salt and pepper to taste and pass through a chinois into a warm jug or bowl. Keep warm to stop the glaze from splitting.
Smoked Haddock Omelette
To assemble & cook the omelette
12 medium free-range eggs | 4 tbsp unsalted butter | 100g aged Parmesan, finely grated | Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Crack the eggs into a jug blender and blend briefly to combine. Pass through a chinois into a measuring jug. Place 4 individual omelette pans (we use Staub) over a low heat. Take the smoked haddock from the fridge, remove the cling film and lay on a grill tray. Warm under the salamander or grill. To each omelette pan, add 1 tbsp butter and heat until melted and foaming. Pour the blended egg into the pans, dividing it equally. Using a spatula, gently move the egg around in the pans until they start to firm up. Remove from the heat; you want the eggs to be slightly loose, as they will continue to cook off the heat. Season the omelettes with salt and pepper and sprinkle the grated Parmesan over their surfaces. Divide the flaked smoked haddock between the omelettes, then spoon on the glaze to cover the fish and extend to the edge of the pans. If the glaze spills over the side of the pan, wipe it away, as this will burn on the side when blowtorching. To finish, wave a cook’s blowtorch over the surface of the omelettes to caramelise the glaze. Allow the glaze to become quite dark, as the bitterness will balance out the richness of all the other ingredients.
The Ultimate Hot Dog
These hot dogs are based on everyone’s favourite Christmas side: pigs in blankets. Like Christmas trees, hot dogs are thought to originate in Germany, so I’ve added a bit of curry powder, German mustard and Bavarian cheese as a nod to that. The Butcher’s Tap & Grill is the place to get great hot dogs and bacon from to make this at home.
Barbecue Burnt Onions
2 large onions, finely sliced | 3 tbsp vegetable oil
Pigs in Blankets
4 jumbo sausages | 2 heaped tsp mild curry powder | 12 rashers of streaky bacon
German Mustard Mayo
100g thick mayonnaise | 40g German mustard | 3 tsp finely chopped shallot | 10 cornichons, finely sliced | 2 tbsp finely chopped dill | Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 long hot dog rolls | 8 thick slices of smoked Bavarian cheese | 8 large slices of dill pickle | A bunch of spring onions, green part only, finely sliced
To cook the onions, place a cast-iron pan on the hot barbecue and add the oil. When it is hot, add the onions with a generous pinch of salt. Stir well and cook for about 20 minutes until softened, dark and caramelised. Meanwhile, prepare the sausages. Poke a metal skewer through the length of each sausage and lay the skewers on a tray. Season with the curry powder, trying to get an even coating all over the sausages. Wrap each one in bacon, using 3 rashers per sausage, and secure the bacon with a couple of cocktail sticks. Lay the bacon-wrapped sausages on the hot barbecue and cook for about 10 minutes, turning every minute or two. While they are on the barbecue, mix the German mustard mayo ingredients together in a bowl, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste; set aside until needed. Once the sausages are cooked through, lift them off the barbecue and place on a tray. Remove the cocktail sticks and metal skewers. To build the hot dogs, slit the rolls open through the top and lay the cheese slices in them. Add the bacon-wrapped sausages and top with plenty of caramelised onions and the pickle slices. Place the hot dogs on a sturdy baking tray on the barbecue, put the lid on and leave for a minute or two so that the cheese becomes all gooey and melted. Transfer the hot dogs to plates and spoon on the German mayo. Scatter over the spring onions for freshness and serve.
There isn’t a grain of rice in sight in this tasty ‘risotto’, which is made using two different kinds of mushrooms instead. The process is relatively simple, we combine finely diced king oyster mushrooms with a creamy mushroom puree. Parmesan and fresh chives finish it beautifully.
500g king oyster mushrooms, finely chopped (approx. 4mm) | 315g button mushrooms, washed and finely chopped | 140ml double cream | 12g fine salt | 40g button mushrooms, washed and finely chopped (additional to finish) | 40g diced Mozzarella cheese | 10g chives, finely chopped | 25g best-quality Parmesan cheese, finely grated
Place the finely chopped king oyster mushrooms in a pan along with 100ml water. Cover with a lid and cook for 10 minutes. Drain and set aside. Place the finely chopped button mushrooms into a medium pan along with the cream and salt. Cover with a lid and cook over medium heat until the mushrooms are tender. Transfer this mixture to a blender and blend to a smooth puree. Place equal amounts of the cooked king oyster mushrooms and mushroom puree into a pan over a medium heat to warm through. Stir through the additional 40g finely chopped button mushrooms, then add the diced mozzarella about 30 seconds later. Finish with the chopped chives and grated Parmesan before serving.
For more recipes and details about Tom Kerridge’s restaurants, visit tomkerridge.com